Kashmiri Pheran

The term “pheran” refers to the traditional garments worn by men, women, and children in Kashmir that wrap the full body up to the knees in order to stay warm during Kashmir’s chilly winters, . Men’s pherans are typically made of tweed wool, have a straightforward style, and are colored black, brown, or grey, women dress in vibrant pherans embroidered with tilla, sozni, and aari work.
The Kashmiri Pheran is much more than a garment. It is a representation of the unique way of life of the locals, a tribute to the area’s rich past and a sign of cultural heritage.

This article explores the cultural significance and historical development of the Kashmiri Pheran, emphasizing its importance in Kashmiri life.

Origin Of The Word ” Pheran “

Regarding the word “pheran’s” origin, there is no agreement. Nonetheless, it appears that the name might have come from the Persian word “perahan,” which denotes a shirt. Kashmir has been heavily influenced by Persian culture. Historians unanimously agree that Pheran has been our possessions since the fifteenth century, maybe even earlier.

History Of Kashmiri Pheran

The origins of Kashmiri pheran are shrouded in numerous stories. Some claim that the long garment was brought to the Kashmir Valley by the Mughal emperor Akbar, while others think Persian travelers devised it to defend themselves from the bitterly cold winters in Kashmir.

According to history, when Mughals invaded Kashmir and attempted to occupy the valley in the 15th century, Kashmiris resisted valiantly under the authority of Yusuf Shah Chak. Earlier, his father, Ali Shah Chak, defeated Babar and Humayun’s forces. Akbar extended friendship and invited Yusuf Shah Chak to Delhi. When the king arrived in Delhi, he was seized and imprisoned in Bihar, where he died and was buried at Nalanda, his tomb in disrepair. His son, Yakub Shah Chak, was finally defeated by the powerful Mughal army. As a result of his seizure of the country, Akbar guaranteed that Kashmiris remained a lethargic community, attached to their Pherans. Sir Walter Lawrence, the Settlement Commissioner for Jammu and Kashmir from 1889 to 1894,  in his book “The Valley of Kashmir”  confirms the fact and accuses Akbar of promoting this garment.

Afghanistan invaded Kashmir in 1753, led by Ahmad Shah Abdali, whose descendants ruled the region until 1819, and replaced the Mughals. Men and women both were required by the Afghans to always wear the same garment, the pheran. Both Mughals and Afghans were disliked by the Kashmiris, but they eventually grew to love the Pheran.

Pherans And Kangris

Kashmiris have always relied on pherans and kangris to stay warm, and even in the current climate of regular power outages, these two age-old remedies keep the locals warm. People store kangris, or earthen pots heated with blazing charcoal and enclosed in handcrafted wicker baskets, beneath their pherans for warmth.

Evolution Of Kashmiri Pheran

Pherans have seen an immense shift in the colors and materials of their garments as well as in the way Kashmiri people view the winters. Blacks, greys, whites, and browns, the hues of the pheran, were once employed to represent the dark skies and dismal weather that winters were known for. However, the younger generation feels that the melancholy tone is enhanced by these colors. Ever since this season began to take on color a decade ago, people have been accessorizing this style with scarves, shawls, and stoles from Kashmir. The usual pheran is still there, but the colors are much stronger.Winter hues used to be connected to melancholy and gloom. Despite these changes, the Pheran retained its essential characteristics and remained a symbol of Kashmiri identity.
These days, the Pheran is growing in popularity. It is now a fashion statement rather than just a traditional attire.
Designers and fashion firms in India and other countries have embraced the Pheran, incorporating it into modern designs and popular fashion. This revival has increased the Pheran’s worldwide readership and helped to keep Kashmir’s cultural heritage intact.

Importance If Pheran In Weddings

The Kashmiri Pheran is an essential part of weddings, particularly for women. The bride is expected to wear at least one Tilla embroidered pheran. Traditionally, the bride wears a more fitted pheran in crimson, maroon, and rust or orange. It is richly adorned with beautiful zari work and traditional Kashmiri aari art.

Fabric And Design Of Kashmiri Pheran

Pheran is simply an upper garment that is freely gathered at the sleeves, which are often wide and do not have side slits. In the later half of the 1800s, males of both Hindu and Muslim faiths wore the traditional pheran, which falls down to the feet. While Hindus still wear ankle-length pherans tied at the waist with narrow sleeves, Muslims now wear a modern variant that is knee-length, with broad sleeves that are loose and stitched at the front side and on the finishes.

The putsch is made of a lightweight cloth and is worn underneath the pheran. It usually serves as an additional layer of warmth during the winter and shields the pheran from burns from the kangri. Pheran was originally found in deeper colors such as brown, black. However, throughout time, other variety of vibrant colors, including yellow, orange, green, and red. were also added. The pherans designed for men are typically checkered and have simple designs in solid colors like black, grey, and off-white, which contrast sharply with the ones worn by Kashmiri women.

The most prevalent types of needlework on pherans are tilla and thread embroidery, with floral motifs being the most sought-after designs. Women’s pyjamas typically have tilla or aari embroidery around the pockets, around the neck, and down the hem line. The pheran’s body is basic, with minimal ornamentation on the sleeves. Additionally, women wear pherans called as korabdaar pherans, which have elbow slits and folded patterned sleeves.

The art of pheran embroidery changed over time. Initially, it was aari kaem and tilla work with simpler designs. Pherans now wear a variety of hand- or machine-made Kashmiri embroidered designs, ranging from sozni to aari, tilla, and kani. Men usually wear simple long robes, and ladies wear neck and border embroidered pherans. Through the years, valley tailors have combined traditional and English coat styles to create stylish pherans for men as well as women.

Summary

The Kashmiri Pheran is more than just a garment; it represents the region’s rich history, cultural heritage, and artistic talent. The Pheran has been an enduring sign of Kashmiri identity, dating back to the Mughal era and resurfacing as a fashion statement today. As we accept modern Pheran fashion, we must remember and honor the artists who carry on this legacy. This assures that future generations can experience the Pheran’s timeless splendor.

Whether worn for its usefulness, beauty, or cultural importance, the Pheran is a treasured garment that reflects the strength and perseverance of the Kashmiri people. It demonstrates the region’s ability to adapt and evolve while keeping its distinct cultural identity. As the Pheran enters the worldwide fashion scene, it serves as a reminder of Kashmir’s rich tapestry of history and heritage.